Focal Point – focusing the attention of the viewer. Accenting/ highlighting water, or a colour. What colour do you want to stand out? What will have the best shadow effect?
Accenting – be aware of surrounding light. If there are bright tennis court lights shining into your garden, the small landscape lights will be ineffective.
Light Objects, not Empty Spaces - Light isn't effective until it hits a surface. Ground Uplighters are move effective against a wall, rather than along a footpath.
Contrast - balance the light, and dark. Dark is actually OK; you need it to contrast the light. Shadows are also OK; They give depth, and add a 3D element.
Don’t Over Light – its not a tennis court. Don't make it feel like one. You never see an overlit Restaurant; create a similar atmosphere.
Beam Angles – ambient vs spotlighting. choose between having general lighting across the area, and lighting specific areas. General rule of thumb, the narrower the beam angle, the more thought that has gone into the lighting design.
Choosing the Right Wattage - this is hard to calculate for landscape lighting. Experience is essential to getting this right. Ask us, if you are unsure.
Choosing the Right Colour Temperature – Bring out the red colours with a warm white. Most Landscape Lighting is Warm White 3000K. Sometimes you may want it to blend in more with the water, and use a Cool White 4000K.
Running Water – lighting running water adds movement, light dancing. amazing effect when its done well.
Swimming pools – A cool white 4000K will compliment the blue water. Light in front of plants near pools, to get the reflections.
Pillars, and Columns – Use a narrow beam downlight, or narrow uplight. This will light the full length evenly, without wasting light.
Viewing Point - design the landscape lighting, from the most common viewing points. This might be the kitchen window, the bedroom window, or the driveway. Make sure you don't have fixtures pointing directly at the viewer.